All Good Things Come to an End

Sunday December 23, 2007

A foggy morning with a bit of weak sunlight filtering down saw us heading out for one last walk with Guinness before our departure. There is a manor house, Gorhambury, on a private estate just a couple of blocks from the house. The locals are permitted to walk the roadway and thus we were able to wander near the grazing sheep, free from traffic, with just the sounds of the church bells ringing on a Sunday morn.





Now it was time to head to the rail station one last time. Goodbye to St. Albans.



Cora and CW accompanied us into London and left us as we entered the tube system for our hour ride to Heathrow airport. As always, tears on my part as we had to bid them farewell. How can we thank you both enough for the fantastic week we had with you and for all the wonderful places you went with us?

For quite awhile, the tube runs underground as it wends its way through London, but once in the suburbs, the tracks come above ground. We were less than thrilled to see how foggy it had become! The day seemed to be improving weatherwise in St Albans as we were leaving. What happened?! The usual airport security measures (alot more thorough in England) were followed after unloading our luggage at the ticket counter. As always, there is alot of time to spend awaiting flights, but I indulged in a Chanel purchase and Michael finally got his fish and chips!

Since this whole area is windowless, we only got to see how dense the fog had become once we were at the gate. Now I understand the term, pea-soup fog! We could barely see the plane housed at the next gate and after awhile that visibilty disappeared too! Our plane was not even at the gate, but standing somewhere in the nether regions of the tarmac! A motorcoach was brought for the over 300 people awaiting to board and thus began the slow process of loading a few at a time, driving out to the plane and then returning for the next group. Our departure was delayed 2 hours because of this. I really do not know how the pilot managed to take off. CW said that later the airport was closed down because of the severe fog.

It was an uneventful flight home, with another palatable meal. This time I watched the latest Harry Potter flick. As we approached Newark airport I realized that we were not attempting to land. The pilot announced that it was 60 degrees and a severe thunderstorm was occuring! Oh indeed it was! We jounced around the sky as lighting flashed all around us! Finally we were able to land, but obviously much later than expected. So, we experienced every kind of weather there is on our two flights!

Once on the ground, life improved. We again were quite tired, but our luggage popped out early; no one wanted to inspect anything; the passport control officer did a quick look and then greeted us with, "Welcome home"! So, we retrieved our car and proceeded to drive 3 hours home to our own bed!! Again we owe sincere thanks to our friends, the Northups, for shoveling away the results of 2 big snowfalls--a dry driveway awaited us. The end, fini, that's all she wrote, folks!

Sights, Sounds and Smells of St Albans

Saturday December 22, 2007

It was a cloudy, damp start to the day and indeed as we four made our way through the cathedral parklands on our way to the weekly market at St Peters St, it began to drizzle. This was the first percipitation encountered all week and it really did not amount to much, just droplets clinging to our outerwear.

The market is an outdoor affair offering everything one could possibly want and/or need and then some! We were greeted by a group of carolers under the ancient town clock tower offering up seasonal hymns.



After obtaining the neccesary produce for the feast to follow, we returned home.
The turkey dinner was started and then we took Guinness to the local park for a good romp. This would be the extent of his exercise this Saturday--no walking all over former stomping grounds were in the plans for today.





From the park, we could see St Albans cathedral through the mist.



In the park there is a building housing the remains of a roman floor from the ancient days when this area was known as Verulamium.



Upon entering the house after our walk, we were assailed with the delicious aromas wafting from the kitchen! We then settled in with mulled cider and snacks and enjoyed our early Christmas celebration. Merry Christmas, one and all!!





The turkey dinner tasted as good as it had smelled! We then did a web-cam with Sharon and Conrad. The eight hour time difference had precluded this happening earlier in the week. What a wonderful ending to a fabulous week! Just too bad that it had to end!

All Around the Town

Friday December 21, 2007

A cloudy, chilly day today, but undaunted, Mike and I set out at our usual time, a little before 9 a.m. for our walk to the rail station. I took pictures today of the route so as to later recall the charming look and feel to the streets.



Our first stop upon arriving in London, was to return to Harrods department store. On Monday it had been later in the day and the store was quite crowded. We wanted to really see the famous Food Halls where just about everything from the mundane to the ultra exotic can be purchased. It was a fun place to poke around without the jostling shoppers. We picked up a bit of lunch for later while there. The Egyptian escalator and enclosed hall are really fascinating to see, with elaborately carved and embossed ceilings, walls, flooring etc. Unfortunately no picture taking is permitted in Harrods, so no chance for a photo op. While there, we looked around a couple of the seasonal sections of the store as well.

Realizing that the time was right to try for another chance at viewing the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham, we hied back to the appropriate tube stop, walked through Green Park and fortuitiously found places along the side fence of the palace grounds! Thus we were able to see what we had missed transpiring when there on Monday.





Thrilled to have had the opportunity to see the whole ritual, we walked back through Green Park, munching on our baguettes as we went along. Today Green Park tube station was the site for the random display of Metropolitan Police security with sniffing dogs and heavily armed personnel. Our next destination was Covent Garden.
This was our first encounter with having to use lifts to return to street level, as the tube station is 15 stories below ground level! Exiting, we found the streets abuzz with holiday shoppers and yes, more of the "living statues" and street entertainers. Gone are the flower marts of Eliza Doolittle's day, now covered arcades contain vendors selling from tables as well as lovely shops and restaurants along the walls.





After a quick look at this fascinating scene (no lingering to buy anything--Harrods had done us in!), we returned to the tube and the lift, heading for Russell Square.
Not doing the British Museum justice (one could spend days exploring it all), we made our way to some of the highlights offered for viewing, including the Rosetta Stone.





Continuing on our marathon day, we returned to the tube and headed for Leicester Square, a bit like New York City's Time Square, with the bustle of theater ticket sellers. We walked down Charing Cross Rd for a couple of blocks and then into the National Gallery. Not having alot of time left, we chose to view the 18th-early 20th century paintings. Took a late day shot of Trafalgar Square from the perspective of the portico of the Gallery.



Still had one more place to get to for a possible photo op and so from the Gallery, we headed up Haymarket St, past some theaters, to Piccadilly Circus. Mike succeeded in capturing the famous Eros statue in the center of the circle, but unfortunately some blue construction wall obscured the full effect.



By 7 p.m. we had arrived home, having walked through the fog (cool), only to discover that we were unable to get the front door lock to work! Knowing that Cora and CW were not too far behind us (whatever did we do before mobiles!), with packages from the day in hand, we proceeded to the Six Bells pub, the one close pub we had not frequented yet. As always, the place was packed with local citizenry.
Once CW came for us, we settled into an evening of dinner and conversation--lovely!

Off With Her Head

Thursday December 20, 2007

Had been a bit colder overnight, so the walk through the park (one of two routes to the main part of St Albans and the rail station) was quite misty--very impressionistic!



This morning we toured St Paul's Cathedral, again no photography allowed except once we climbed over 200 twisting, stone steps in a narrow stairwell, first to the Whispering gallery that overlooks the sanctuary and then on up another level to an outside balcony that circles the steeple. Wonderful, panoramic views of London--a bit hazy though.





After seeing the cathedral, we headed into the true "city" of London, i.e. the financial district, where we met Cora for lunch. We had sandwiches al fresco (but with huge space heaters right by the table) in the many laned arcade of Leadenhall.



After eating, we three took a brisk walk over to the Tower of London. While Cora returned to work (would have enjoyed having her be able to spend the afternoon with us, but golly gee one does need to work!), Mike and I bought tickets for the 2:30 p.m tour of the Tower. We were escorted around by a Beefeater in full uniform. He regaled us with history and humorous asides. Unfortunately because of the lateness of the tour, and the early sunset, we could not fully explore the grounds as well as we would have liked after the talk was finished. The gates do really close at sunset!!





Once outside the prison walls, we walked across the Tower Bridge and were also able to get night shots of the Tower all aglow.





After returning across the bridge, we made our way home. This night CW came upon us as we walked towards their cottage! He left us at another area pub, Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, reputed to be the oldest continuously running pub in England, while going on home to attend to Guinness. Later CW and soon after Cora, joined us for another pub grub meal--yummy! We ended the evening at the Rose and Crown, the pub right around the corner from the house. Thursday evenings will find a miscellaneous group of folk musicians wander in any time after 9p.m, grab a pint, settle in near the fireplace with whatever instrument of choice they have and then seemingly know instinctively what tune to play! Nothing is announced to the patrons, indeed many never stop their conversations, but it really is quite alot of fun to sit and watch it all!



We left everyone still fiddling and strumming away around 10 p.m. as another day of work loomed ahead for two of the four in our party.

Holy and Wicked

Wednesday December 19, 2007

Just Mike and I on this day as we headed into London. Our first stop was to obtain theater tickets for a matinee of "Wicked", playing at a theater across from Victoria Station. I had been inside this huge rail terminus many years ago when after college I, with a friend, did a 3 month trek around Europe. We landed in England at Victoria.



With tickets in hand, we took the tube to Westminster Abbey. The rest of the morning was spent looking into all the nooks, crannies, small chapels and not to be overlooked, the very floor we were standing upon, as well as every wall, for all the graves, shrines and commemorative plaques to the famous deceased housed and/or at least honored in the Abbey. Quite an impressive array of influential souls from all walks of life can be found within these hallowed walls. We could only take pictures in the small, outdoor garden that is not open to the public all the time, but fortunately for us, was so on this day.





From the Abbey, we walked over to the Royal Society. there CW gave us a tour of his work place--several historic townhouses now with open internal access. Afterwards, we three headed to lunch near Trafalgar Square.





After a nice treat of having lunch with CW, he directed us to the proper tube station where we took the underground back to the theater. Thoroughly enjoyed the show!



Pleasant surprise for us as we were trekking home from the rail station--Cora caught up to us, but since we were limping along, literally, as both Mike and I had shoe/sore feet issues this day, Cora continued on ahead. Another delicious dinner awaited us this night.

Oh For the Student Life

Tuesday December 18 2007

Cora and CW took this day off from work to escort us out to Waterbeach, their second home. What a great taste of the typical English country village!





We took a quick walk along the Cam River, a favorite site for Guinness when he lived in Waterbeach, and then back onto the overground train into Cambridge.




We walked into a couple of the buildings at Cora's college where she obtained her Masters degree (congratulations, dear) and then had had a pub lunch nearby. Now we were prepared to spend the rest of the afternoon exploring this ancient town with its numerous, famous colleges and universities.



Trinity College allowed inside photos--a rare treat.



We even observed punting on the Cam although it had to be a bit nippy for the participants as the day was cloudy and raw all day.



I thoroughly enjoyed walking the narrow historic streets with the stone buildings.



Oh yes, we really were there as you can see.





We ended the day with a bit of shopping and then met a friend of Cora's from her university days at a pub famous for its WW11 patrons--RAF and US airmen. Dinner was from a Marks and Spencer take away located right on the train platform. We enjoyed hearty sandwiches on the 45 minute overground train ride back into London. Then home to St Albans via the usual train.

On Our Own

Monday December 17, 2007

Today Cora and CW returned to work, so armed with a map and our necessary train and tube passes, we walked to the overground train station (by the end of the week, we knew this route really well!) and then changed for the tube at St Pancras station. First order of the day was to see the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. We arrived early enough to be by the entrance, but unfortunately not along the fence which would have enabled us to see the action inside the courtyard. Again we had a sunny, but chilly morning. However in the 1 1/2 hours we stood outside, the day turned cloudy and windy. We did get a good view of the soldiers and band as they marched past us.



After the show, we walked along the street next to the palace until we arrived at Speakers Corner and Hyde Park. Then into the Knightsbridge area for lunch and a bit of shopping at Harrods. Fortified and with lighter wallets, we wandered into Hyde Park, stopping to see the Albert Memorial and then past the Serpentine and over to Bayswater.





This route brought us eventually past Marble Arch and onto Oxford St--a big mecca for every retail store you can imagine. Poked around Selfridges (like Macys) and a few other shops, then continued onto Regent St which has Fifth Ave quality stores.
Finally we arrived at Piccadilly Circus and just beyond we had been steered by CW via mobile phone to await him at yet another quaint pub. There is less number of hours of daylight in England during this time of the year, so it is fully dark by 4p.m. or so, so it is not odd to head for a pub at an early hour! Once CW arrived, we shortly thereafter made our way to St Albans for a nice dinner.

Going Down to London Town

Sunday December 16, 2007

Who says it rains in England? Awoke early to a glorious, sunny day, albeit abit chilly. Today big G stayed home while we four headed into London. We changed trains and headed to Maida Vale, the section of town where CW lived when he studied abroad for one semester while at University of Delaware. Beautiful residential neighborhood with a canal running nearby, hence the area's nickname of Little Venice. We walked to the street where CW shared a flat and eyeballed the slightly below street level entry.
The house:


The canal complete with houseboats:


We then took the tube to Trafalgar Square, where the locals and tourists alike were out enjoying the beautiful day. Took the obligatory snapshots of Nelson's Column, the National Gallery and surrounding streets.



From the square, we walked to Admiralty Arch then onto Pall Mall for a ways until we could see the back of the building complex of the Royal Society, where CW works.






We walked through the Horse Guards parade grounds; saw a sphinx like calvaryman astride an equally still steed, then to the sight of the Parliment complex beside the Thames.





On the bridge crossing over to the South Bank, we got a good view of the London Eye.



The rest of the day was spent mingling with the crowds enjoying Frost Fest--outdoor vendors, bookstalls under a tent, jugglers, dancers and the always fascinating living statues.



Lunch was at a noodle place that provided huge bowls and/or plates of delicious food. Watch out for an American debut of this chain called Wagamama soon to open in Boston.
The author enjoying her soup:


We briefly visited the Tate Modern art gallery and had a fun time at the Globe Theater, with an actor giving the history of this historic, albeit newly built, home of Shakesphere's plays. Our full day ended with a quick stop at a pub along the bank and then home. Guinness was glad to see us!